Charleston, South Carolina

As you round the point from Sullivan's Island, the spires of Charleston will begin peeping over the horizon to the north. Shimmering in the summer haze, the city often looks as if it has been plucked from the pages of an old novel. You can almost feel the romantic promise of exciting Old World opportunities. The cruising visitor need not fear disappointment. The reality of Charleston is even more fascinating than its promise.

Charleston is clearly the stop on the South Carolina ICW. Boaters who fail to make the acquaintance of Charleston will miss what is, quite simply, one of the most beautiful and exciting cities in the world. The city stands ready to greet you with a mind-boggling array of attractions. Beautiful old mansions that look as if they have stepped out of another era, countless fine restaurants, and a multitude of interesting shops and businesses are only a part of the town's attractions. There are movies to see that reveal much of the Charlestonian character, and native craftsmen and artists to watch as they go about their traditional tasks. It would take months to fully appreciate all of the city's attractions, but fortunately, many can be enjoyed in the space of a few days.

In the following pages, this guide will explore the often vague, sometimes fleeting, but always exciting qualities that make Charleston a city apart from all the rest. You may confidently use this information as a base of reference for your visit. However, various publications recommended in the following sections can arm you with additional knowledge of the city. The fortunate cruising visitor who makes Charleston a port of call will do well to acquire all the information that he or she can before embarking on his (or her) journey through this timeless city.

Native Charlestonians will tell you that the Ashley, Cooper, and Wando rivers flow down their respective channels to form first Charleston Harbor and then the Atlantic Ocean. While this may be at variance with accepted geographic theory, it clearly shows what a high regard this city has for its waters. Indeed, until very recent times, Charleston's waterways were its highways of commerce.

The Heart of Charleston

"Charleston isn't a city. Charleston is a way of life." We reflected on the truth of that singular statement by tour guide Timmy Mallard as my mate and this writer enjoyed the Charleston Battery by horse-drawn carriage one cool spring afternoon. Long rows of lovely mansions slipped dreamily by, followed by a breathtaking view of the harbor. As the cool sea breeze hit my face, I reflected that the more one knows Charleston, the more one comes to understand what a unique city it really is. Indeed, without an understanding of Charleston's very special character, you cannot fully enjoy your visit as you should.

Charleston has had many titles since it first began as a struggling colony on the banks of Town Creek in 1670. Those designations are at least a partial key to understanding the city's character. Charleston has often been called a living museum. While America's past has been recreated in such places as Williamsburg, Virginia, and Sturbridge Village, Massachusetts, those centers are monuments to our heritage. In Charleston, local citizens live and work every day in the city's historic homes and buildings. You might say they are actually living in the framework of the past, not just remembering times that are now far removed. This unique condition seems to impart a very special quality to Charleston. It is almost as though the past were somehow a closer and more tangible entity.

Charleston is also called the "Holy City." This title refers to the many steeples that dot the skyline. Certainly, Charleston has always been a very religious community, usually in the very best sense. The roots of religious tolerance stretch far back into the colonial era. It takes far more than titles, however, to understand the very special community that is Charleston. In his book Charleston in the Age of the Pinckneys, George C. Rogers, Jr., lays bare the soul of the city in a clear, concise, and very readable manner. While there are many other works that detail Charleston's history, there is perhaps no other that offers such penetrating insight into the background of the city's unique character.

Rogers divides the social history of Charleston into two eras. The first he terms the "Open City." This period lasted from colonial days until the 1800s. During that time, Charleston acted as a giant sponge, soaking up education, culture, and science from all over the world. The port's vast waterborne commerce made contact with other American and European cultures an everyday occurrence. Charlestonians picked from the very best of these influences and founded a social order that was admired throughout the Western world. Education flourished, and intellectual societies were established. There was no rigid social order. Men of ability were often admitted to the highest echelons of society even if they were not of noble birth. It was an exciting time to live and work in Charleston. Who among us does not have at least a little envy for those fortunate enough to have lived in those golden days?

The second era, which Rogers terms the "Closed City," began in the early 1800s. It was during this period that large sums of money began to be concentrated in the hands of wealthy, slave-owning planters. A rigid planter aristocracy developed, and the Charlestonian way of life began to change. No longer was it open to the influences of the outside world. The planters believed they had found the perfect existence. The lower classes were there to toil, and the aristocracy was there to reap the benefits. This way of life was to be jealously guarded, and the traditions of the past were to be preserved at all cost. Those who argued for change were the enemy. It was this attitude, coupled with economic friction, that helped lead to the Civil War.

Yet for all its closed-mindedness and social injustice, this period produced much that was glamorous and romantic. Many of the tales and beautiful homes that so enthrall us today had their roots in the planter society. Indeed, you cannot understand Charleston if you do not appreciate the vague but ever-present sorrow that permeates the city, a sorrow for that gracious way of life that is lost forever.

In the final pages of his book, Rogers records a young woman's description of her travels back to her native Charleston following the War Between the States. This touching passage can perhaps do more than any other to put the reader in touch with that very special bittersweet quality that will forever be the heart of Charleston: "`Scarcely a farm house, not an elegant and hospitable plantation residence on the way, all ruin, ruin . . . I journeyed with a coffin where was laid my love and earthly hope, and came home.' What she saw was a city devastated, her home plundered of all books, private papers, pictures, her church's cemetery filled with the debris and overgrowth of four years of war and neglect. Yet many flowers bloomed amid the ruins. And so she sighed: `I could not help thinking yesterday, as I saw the flowers look up and smile, when the superincumbent weight and decay and ruin were removed, that they set us a good example politically. But then, flowers have no memory.'"

Charleston History

In 1663, all of what was to become North and South Carolina was granted by King Charles II to eight "Lords Proprietors." These eight men were friends of the king who had helped him regain power following the death of Oliver Cromwell. Though in later times the colony was to come under Royal authority, the early years, for good or ill, were presided over by the Lords Proprietors.

In 1669, three ships set sail from England to found a colony in the new land of Carolina. The expedition made landfall at Port Royal Sound, but on the advice of the cacique of Kiawah, the expedition removed to the banks of Ashley River to the north. Here, on the shores of Town Creek, they founded Charles Towne, named by the colonists in honor of their king. Around 1680, the small settlement was removed to Oyster Point, located on the neck of land separating the Ashley and Cooper rivers. The site was deemed to be (and still is) ideally situated for waterborne commerce. Plans were carefully laid out for streets and lots before the move took place, making Charles Towne the first planned community in America.

In 1680, the young colony got a boost from the arrival of a number of French Huguenots. Fleeing religious persecution in their homeland, these first immigrants presaged many others who would brave the wave-tossed Atlantic to take advantage of South Carolina's religious tolerance. Eventually, the colony was influenced by Dutch and German immigrants as well, though the French influence was certainly the strongest of the lot. This melting-pot atmos-phere is often credited for Charleston's resiliency and worldliness.

A strong Spanish-French fleet threatened the small colony in 1698, but the intruders were soundly defeated both by land and by sea. This event was typical of the courage and bravado that Charlestonians have always exemplified in times of military threat.

By 1730, Charles Towne had become an important, bustling port. Tragically, in 1740, the town was the victim of a great fire that burned many houses. Over the course of its history, Charleston has suffered many major fires, several violent hurricanes, and even a strong earthquake. As George C. Rogers, Jr., so aptly commented, "It is a wonder that Charleston still looks like an eighteenth-century city."

As the Revolution approached, Charles Towne took a decidedly patriot point of view. The news of the battles of Lexington and Concord was greeted by a parade of South Carolina militia as well as a resolve by the assembly to raise three regiments and prepare the colony for war. Charlestonians did not have long to wait. In the battle described in the previous chapter, the British were soundly repulsed at Fort Moultrie. The English returned, however, in 1780, and after a brief siege captured the city. The fall of Charleston and the loss of New York were to rank as the worst American defeats of the war. The main English army was defeated by Washington at Yorktown in 1781, but it was not until December 1782 that Charleston was evacuated by the British, thus effectively bringing the war to an end.

Following the close of the war, the Charles Towne council changed the name of the city to Charleston. It seems that the local citizens no longer relished the idea of their fair town bearing the name of an English sovereign.

The years between the Revolution and the Civil War were mostly prosperous. Both the developing rice culture to the north and the rise of Sea Island cotton to the south aided Charleston's economy. Vast quantities of goods left the city's wharves bound for European and Northern ports. Rich planters built many residences in the city. It was quite fashionable to have a "city house" in addition to one's plantation. During this period, many of the small creeks and ponds on the Charleston peninsula were filled in to make room for further development. Several modern-day streets are located atop the one-time passage of these small streams.

The South Carolina economy continued to be highly agricultural, as did that of most of the Southern states. When the economic interests of the agrarian South conflicted with those of the industrialized North, confrontation became inevitable. In a fight with the federal government over tariff laws, South Carolina's great statesman, John C. Calhoun, argued for the doctrine of Nullification, an affirmation of a state's right to reject federal laws with which it could not agree.

Finally, of course, this war of words turned into a military conflict that began within sight of Charleston. The story of Fort Sumter will be told later in this chapter; for now, it is sufficient to note that the Civil War's first major conflict occurred between South Carolina forces at Fort Johnson on James Island and Federal troops occupying Fort Sumter.

Though Beaufort, to the south, fell to Northern forces early in the war, it was not until February 1865 that Union troops occupied Charleston, and then only after the Confederate army evacuated the city. South Carolina Confederates fought valiantly throughout the war, time and again denying the passages to Charleston to vastly superior Union forces.

Though Charleston suffered some damage from bombardment, it was not grievously decimated by the war, as were many other South Carolina cities. There has been much speculation about why Sherman, the usually cold-blooded Union commander, did not put the torch to Charleston as he did to other proud cities. He had visited Charleston before the war and admired the community, and some claim that he spared the city simply because he liked it. Others argue that he had promised friends in the North that he would preserve the town. Another theory claims that he did not act because the war was nearly over when Charleston's turn came. Whatever the reason, Charleston survived the war better than any other major city in South Carolina.

The years following the Civil War were hard ones for Charleston. It was not until World War II that Charleston began to prosper again. This long depression proved to be a hidden boon for the city. While other communities were busy tearing down their historic buildings and widening their streets, Charleston was forced by lack of capital to make do with what it had. In the 1950s and 1960s, Charlestonians awoke to the unique opportunity afforded by a city that still retained its historic character. Renovation projects began on a wide scale, and they continue to this day. While some areas are still not fully renovated, vast sections of the historical district have been restored to their former glory. How fortunate we are that times were too hard in Charleston for "modern improvements" following the War Between the States!

Many visitors to Charleston will want to read more detailed accounts of the city's fascinating history. Inspiring tales and colorful figures enliven the story of Charleston. Several very readable accounts of the city's heritage are readily available. This writer's personal favorite is A Short History of Charleston, by Robert Rosen.

As you tour Charleston, pause often to reflect on the history of this great city. There are few places in America that can lay claim to such a treasure trove of tradition and heritage. Listen carefully and perhaps you can still hear faint music from the old Dock Street Theatre, or the powerful voice of John C. Calhoun arguing forcibly for states' rights. For those who knowledgeably seek her treasures, Charleston never fails in her reward.

Charleston Restaurants

Charleston boasts a multitude of fine restaurants with a wide array of cuisine. In fact, with the possible exception of New Orleans, this writer has never discovered a city that can boast so many fine and varied dining attractions. Everything from the most sophisticated continental offerings to fried and broiled seafood is readily available. It would take weeks to sample all of Charleston's gastronomical delights. The wonderful guidebook Dining Out in Charleston lists dozens of restaurants well worthy of visitors' attention. This publication is highly recommended for first-time visitors. Charleston is one of those magical places where every corner can lead the visitor to an obscure little eatery just waiting for someone to discover its charms.

During our second carriage tour of Charleston, the tour guide made the unusual observation that Charleston chefs are surely bound for heaven. When queried about this bold claim, the tour guide responded that once the Almighty got a taste of Charleston cooking, nothing else would do. After enjoying the city's restaurants, you may not find this statement very difficult to believe.